Presented by Cooks’ World and Pinnacle Wine & Liquor 

Customers at Pinnacle Wine & Liquor may have noticed by now that we have dramatically expanded our selection of saké, shochu, and other Asian spirits; they’re right beside the checkout counter, so they’re hard to miss. 

So far, we’ve conducted two in-store saké tastings and a saké seminar, and we’ll continue working to inform and familiarize our customers with the language and diverse styles of saké. Meanwhile, here’s a concise introduction to saké from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust and a valuable guide on storing and warming it (if you choose to warm it—most saké is excellent slightly chilled).

For this week’s cocktail(s), we’ll take a closer look at the nigori style of saké (“nigori-zake” or “cloudy saké”), as Pinnacle now carries four distinctly different brands of nigori saké.

What nigori saké is

All saké begins as a thick mash (the Japanese term is “moromi”) of rice and water fermenting in vats. As yeast and enzymes do their work, the rice grains gradually disintegrate into fine particles—saké’s answer to the lees in winemaking. Indeed, the rice solids are often called lees, or white lees, or the Japanese term “kasu.” After fermentation, most saké is pressed and filtered to remove the rice solids, yielding the clear fluid we recognize as modern saké (its color may vary). The exception is nigori saké, which retains some of those rice solids and is a throwback to the primitive styles of saké that preceded the introduction of pressing and filtration hundreds of years ago. 

There are two ways to make nigori saké. One is to add some of the rice solids back into clear saké after filtration, and the other is to use a coarser filter during filtration, allowing some of the solids to remain. Either method produces comparable results. 

The amount of rice solids in nigori sakés varies; some are almost entirely opaque and nearly chewy on the palate, while others have only a slight haze. (See Fig. 1 for a side-by-side visual comparison of Pinnacle’s four nigori sakés.) 

An important point: The classification of a saké as nigori is separate and independent of its milling-based classification. Theoretically, a brewer could make the finest junmai daiginjo sake a nigori saké; in practice, that rarely happens. The lees content of nigori saké can reduce or overcome the delicate aromas and nuanced flavors typical of more refined saké (e.g., ginjo and daiginjo), so most nigori-zake is made with the less refined grades. There are exceptions, however, such as Rihaku Dreamy Clouds, and despite the strong influence of rice solids, the flavors of nigori saké range from light, dry, and tart to full-flavored, thick, creamy, and sweet.

Four excellent examples of nigori saké

Here’s a brief review of the four nigori sakés in stock at Pinnacle Wine & Liquor, along with suggested pairings—but have fun finding your own favorite pairings, whether pizza, sandwiches, burgers…you name it! An old Japanese expression says, “saké doesn’t pick fights with food,” and I’ve found that true. Almost any saké goes with almost any foodl

Shake nigori sakés well before serving, as the rice solids will settle in storage. My ideal temperature for all of them is around 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and you should store them chilled after opening to extend their flavor life. 

Rihaku Dreamy Clouds:  Its milling rate of 59 percent technically qualifies it as Junmai Ginjo grade. It’s bright and lean in the mouth, and while it has some sweet rice flavors, you’ll sense the sake’s nutty and slightly fruity characteristics as well. Pair this one with spicy noodle dishes, risotto, or white fish.

Tozai Snow Maiden: This is the most full-bodied of Pinnacle’s four nigori-zake. It’s as creamy as can be but bright and fresh with pleasant flavors of honeydew melon, raw pumpkin, and radish. Try with spicy foods, crab, or pork, and definitely have it in a delicious Kyoto Lady cocktail! 

Wakaze Nigori Sake: Fun fact, it’s legal (and even encouraged) to make saké outside of Japan, and this one comes from (wait for it) … France. It’s made from a French rice, Camarque, by Master Brewer Shoya Imai. It presents rich rice aromas but lots of cantaloupe on the palate. Pair it with a Caesar salad, fried calamari, or a lobster roll.

Yuki Otoko Snow Yeti: This dry nigori saké is smooth and creamy, with notes of steamed rice, soft herbs, and chestnut, with a refreshing, clean finish. It’s an excellent pairing with fried foods, including tempura or fried oysters, and it loves tofu dishes. 

Nigori saké cocktails? Yes, please—that’s why we’re here.

I previously posted the Kyoto Lady mentioned above and several other cocktails that include other styles of saké. Here are three more that call for nigori saké. (Clicking on the links in the photo captions will take you to another page for the recipes.)

About our Cocktail of the Week partners—shop local and independent!
Cooks’ World and Pinnacle Wine & Liquor are less than a mile from each other, on Monroe Avenue near Twelve Corners in Brighton.

Cooks’ World, in business since 1978, is Rochester’s premier retailer of dining, kitchen, and cooking products, including a complete selection of glassware, mixology tools, and accessories for wine and spirits lovers. Follow Cooks’ World on Facebook and Instagram. Sign up here to receive Cooks’ World’s daily email specials and other news. 

Pinnacle Wine & Liquor, in business since 1997, offers a thoughtfully curated selection of spirits and wine from around the world, with a savvy staff to assist in your selection and encourage you along your cocktail and wine journey. Follow Pinnacle on Facebook and Instagram. For the inside track on Pinnacle’s spirits sales, send two text messages to (585)765-7546:
— Text the word “bourbon,” to receive weekly text messages offering the chance to buy rare or allocated whiskies or special prices on popular products.
—Text the word “spirits,” to receive roughly monthly offers on fine spirits other than whiskies.